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Interview with Alicia Hardesty of “Project Runway”

Project Runway, now in its tenth season with no signs of going out of style anytime soon, has had so many gay men on it, they could fill a Pride float draped in Italian wool, cut on the bias. Lesbian designers, not so much. This year, the show features out lesbian designer, Alicia Hardesty. The last (known) lesbian contestant was Zulema Griffin in Season 2, and she was famously made to appear straight in the edit room. Whether or not Alicia will get the same treatment, eight years later, remains to be seen, but considering Alicia cites Huckleberry Finn as a style inspiration, I’d love to see Project Runway try and de-gay that.

We talked to Alicia recently about her experiences on the show, her plans to launch her own collection called Original Tomboy, and how much she loves being mistaken for Whitney Mixter.

AfterEllen.com: Congrats on getting on Project Runway, Season 10. As we know, the show is not only about creating designs, it’s about being able to finish those designs. Are you a fast sewer? Alicia Hardesty: I am pretty fast. In some of the challenges, I was impressed with myself. I didn’t realize how quickly I could sew! You always worry about problems [like] machines not being threaded right — there are one million things that can pop up and slow you down — but as far as the sewing process goes, we were on industrial machines, so the sewing goes pretty quick.

AE: Since you have the speed-sewing under control, what is the hardest thing about being on the show? AH: The hardest thing is getting everything done in the amount of time you have. It’s insanely stressful and there’s so much pressure because after a couple of challenges, you know what these judges are like. You know you’re going to be on TV and everyone is watching. So you’re thinking about all those things as you work. The pressure is crazy and you have to put something good on the runway.

AE: What’s Tim Gunn like? He’s not exactly Mister Effusive, but he seems like a nice guy. AH: Tim is really cool and easy to talk to. Even if there are some things he doesn’t like about [your design,] it’s easy to talk to him and figure out what you can do to make it better.

AE: Did he say anything to you that you remember being especially eye-opening? AH: There was one thing I was working on, where he made me think I had some other options. And it made me change a couple things about the design. Honestly, there are times when you want to go with Tim Gunn’s critique, because he has a good sense, not only about the design, but what the judges are looking for. You go the way of Tim Gunn a little bit because he’s always really on it. AE: Does your mind ever go completely blank? AH: It hasn’t yet. That’s the thing. You have to keep your creativity up and stay on your toes. You got to keep it fresh and keep your mind open and let the creativity flow. You know what I mean?

AE: I usually just let the vodka flow. Hey, you’re also working on launching your collection, Original Tomboy. Great name! Is it available now? AH: It will be soon. I’m in the process of getting production together. This is the first collection that I’ve designed for Fall: a small collection of pieces that will be available online and in a few boutiques.

AE: You’ve described Original Tomboy as a “modern Huck Finn.” What does that mean? Is it a time, a place, a way of life? A state of mind? A banned book? AH: For me, it’s more like a state of mind. It’s also like a lifestyle. I grew up in Kentucky as a tomboy and I carry that through to my life today. I like being outdoors and just being very “Huck Finn.” A modern Huck Finn is a modern version of a tomboy. I also like being very fresh, forward, socially conscious, and being involved in the world, but still having deep roots. So vintage, country, Kentucky.

AE: Is your Kentucky background a major influence in your design? AH: Yeah it wasn’t always like that. When I was growing up, I was striving to get out of Kentucky and see the world. [But] when I moved away and was living in different places, I had an appreciation of where I grew up and what it’s done for me. So, it’s been more of an influence on me. AE: How old were you when you realized you didn’t want to wear what the other girls were wearing? AH: I’ve always had an aversion to wearing what I was supposed to wear. I always hated dressing up and doing the whole dress thing, and tucking in my shirt. I just wanted to do what I wanted to do.

AE: Wow, you really are Huck Finn. When’s the last time you wore a skirt or a dress? AH: [Laughs.] I was asked that a lot when I was on the show. I tell people I think it was high school, but it was probably just a couple of years ago.

AE: So, you’re basically lying to people, is that it? Maybe you’ve blocked it out of your mind. AH: It was a photo shoot for a photographer friend. And my girlfriend — she’s into styling as well — they threw me into a couple of dresses. The [shoot’s theme] was putting tomboys in all these vintage dresses because it looks really awkward. You know, tomboys just look really awkward in dresses. So, I’ve done it, but never for my own styling purposes. Just photo shoots.

AE: Only when they make you? AH: Only when they make me.

AE: I want to talk to you about something that’s very important to me, and that something is pockets. Why are the pockets in women’s jeans so frigging tiny? AH: Oh yeah. I hate that. It’s one of my biggest pet peeves in womenswear. The pockets always suck. Or, they have fake pockets. During the competition, I was told, “Well just do faux pockets.”

I was like, “You don’t understand! I cannot — even if I’m running out of time — fathom not putting pockets in them.” I just can’t do it. So yeah, I totally hear you.

AE: What time and place in fashion history would you say is your favorite? AH: I am really into the 20s. There’s something whimsical about it. Coco Chanel got women wearing pants, just by her wearing pants on a boat. It started a revolution in womenswear, especially with women wearing pants. I like that.

AE: What you think people will be wearing in 100 years? In some science fiction movies, everyone’s wearing Mylar onesies, and in others, they’re basically wearing sweaters. AH: I more picture a change in materials. I think with the rate we consume everything on this planet, I would hope there will be a lot less waste. If materials and resources are limited, I hope we are going to see recycled materials, conscious choices, or more intentional garments that are for more than going out on a Saturday night. And a lot less of Forever 21’s mass amounts of really, really cheap clothing.

AE: Have you heard about the other store, Forever 39? They sell yoga mats and wine. AH: That’s funny.

AE: Okay. It’s time to play, “Fashion Questions Specifically for Lesbians.” Ready? AH: [Laughs.] Yeah.

AE: What is the most common mistake lesbians make when it comes to fashion? AH: The most common mistake is that we don’t always wear clothes that fit. I don’t know what’s happening. I think the biggest misconception is that you have to be “into fashion” to pick up things that are decent, or fit you. If you feel more masculine or you like to dress more masculine, it doesn’t have to look boxy, or be oversized. You know I’m saying?

AE: Clothes for the fashion conscious butch are hard to find. Women’s clothes are too girly, and men’s clothes are cut for men. AH: That’s the problem. This is why I’m doing Original Tomboy, among several other reasons. I definitely think there should be more [choices] out there. Because we have to get to a state of mind where lesbians are at one with how they look, not only fitting into the world, but making a stronger and better statement for lesbian fashion.

AE: The few niche stores, online or otherwise, that are catering to the butch woman all seem to favor an urban look. How do you plan on marketing Original Tomboy’s Kentucky couture? AH: I’m still sort of getting my ducks in a row and who I want to market to. It’s hard for me to gauge how successful [it will be] until I have my product ready. But I’ve had a couple of people reach out to me for fashion shows and things like that.

AE: Fashion shows are perfect for getting your name out there but I rarely see the unwashed masses wearing runway outfits to the grocery store. AH: Whenever I design, I think more about detail and functionality. Comfort and materials and colors are very important to me. It’s more about creating something overall that’s really cool and will look good on several different kinds of people.

AE: I like it! Speaking of looks, how long have you had dreads? AH: It’ll be nine years in October. It took six months to a year to start dreading properly but I do them myself. I went to a salon once in Brooklyn, but besides that, I’ve been doing them myself the whole time. AE: Do people ever mistake you for Whitney from The Real L Word? AH: Oh yeah, that’s happened a couple of times. And then, I’m like, “Really? Don’t do that.” I mean, I’m not hating on her. She’s doing her thing. I just don’t want to be compared to her.

AE: Well, when they mistake you for her, you could explain who you really are and talk about Original Tomboy. It’s an opportunity to gain another fan. Use her notoriety to your advantage! AH: That’s true. That’s true.

AE: Do you ever clash on styling issues with your girlfriend? AH: No, not at all. She’s amazing and she always knows what she’s talking about. She’s my go-to person for fashion feedback. AE: Have you ever been with someone whom you felt compelled to give a makeover? AH: [Laughs.] I haven’t been with anybody that was that bad. There were other things I could have changed…

AE: It doesn’t matter now. You’re happy. AH: Yeah.

AE: On that note, I’m going to leave you with one word that I want you to remember for the rest of your career. AH: All right.

AE: Pockets. AH: Trust me. It’s there.

Watch Alicia bring her tomboy fashion sense to Project Runway on Lifetime, Thursdays, 9PM/ET. And VOTE TeamAlicia. Tomboys deserve to win things.

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