With Puerto Rico adopting the Supreme Court’s ruling to legalize same-sex marriage nationwide last week, there is no better time to visit ancestral homeland of Naya Rivera, Michelle Rodriguez and Jennifer Lopez.
Because it is U.S. territory, American citizens do not need a passport when traveling to Puerto Rico. In this regard, specifically its ease of access for residents of the eastern seaboard, Puerto Rico is an ideal getaway for those craving a Caribbean island holiday but-for better or worse-still want to feel “at home,” where American travelers can get by speaking English and using U.S. currency.
This point broaches perhaps the most ethical conundrum when visiting Puerto Rico that needs to be addressed by the conscientious traveler: how its territory status, and recent $72 billion debt crisis, has affected the living conditions of Puerto Ricans, over 40% of whom are living in poverty. On the mainland, the effects of this can be disturbing-can the conscientious traveler enjoy paradise inside the walls of a four-star resort while knowing that outside those walls, citizens struggle to make a living? The point is to not dissuade the traveler but apprise her of the reality of her holiday experience. To be clear, tourism drives Puerto Rico’s economy; most inhabitants work in the industry and are very proud of their home, and sharing and celebrating its beauty with visitors. The best way for tourists to support Puerto Ricans is, literally, to spend their money there, in support of local businesses, yes, but any where Puerto Ricans are employed.
For the most luxurious experience on the mainland, queer travelers will find romance and adventure at St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort. This gorgeous 483-acre property is approximately a 30-minute shuttle ride (which one can arrange through the resort) from the San Juan airport, and is situated on the northeast part of the island, nestled against El Yunque National Forest, the otherworldly 28,000 acre subtropical rain forest where one can explore nature by hiking, or even zip-lining, and go for a dip underneath one of its waterfalls.
Even before marriage equality, Puerto Rico was gay friendly. My wife and I stayed at the St. Regis prior to this June’s SCOTUS victory, and not only was the staff very welcoming, but fellow resort guests were favorably indifferent to our hand holding and other respectful PDAs. The resort even embroidered our robes (which we, of course, were able to keep!) and laid them on the bed for us-a lavish touch that signified their acknowledgement and promotion of a #DeepLez agenda for romance.
Whether a room with a tropical view or a luxe suite overlooking the Atlantic ocean, all rooms are equipped with marble bathtubs for some serious sexy time-I mean, a “bubble bath.” There is a spa on location and, even better, you can request spa services on the pool esplanade, in case you want to go for a swim after a rub down. A dip in the pool is advised for those wanting to swim; the Atlantic was cool and a bit murky well into June. That said, the beach, private to the property, is stunning and home to leatherback turtles-a nest of which hatched on the night of our arrival!
The dining on site is exquisite. The menus are focused on seafood, and accentuated by traditions of the local cuisine, which depends heavily on fruits like coconuts and plantains, along with popular dishes like tostones and ceviche. (The resort, to note, was a former coconut plantation.) Daily, in the late afternoon around 6pm (or, what we refer to as “happy hour”), you can witness a champagne sabering and tasting and then go for a sunset stroll on the beach. The Jean-George restaurant, Fern, is the perfect place to enjoy a romantic meal at the end of the day, enchanted by the sounds of crashing waves on the beach and the orchestral nocturnes of the coqui, native frogs who come out at night.
For the sporty dyke, in addition to hitting the on-site gym and working out on the trails of El Yunque, the St. Regis also has amenities like an 18-hole golf course and activities like tennis and kayaking.
Head in to Old San Juan, about a 30-minute drive, for some cultural history, including a tour of La Fortaleza, the 16th century military fortress, comprised of three different forts, where you can learn about Puerto Rico’s military history, from its settlement by Christopher Columbus, through the various battles with colonization (Spanish, French, English, Dutch, American). For the Goonie in you, check out the dungeons, where you’ll find some badass drawings by pirates.
If you’re up for a bit more adventure and exploration of Puerto Rico, off the mainland and just a short 20 minute hopper flight away is the island of Vieques. Formerly a U.S. military base, this popular municipality is home to a number of stunning beaches, where the waters are a stunningly clear turquoise and where you can, indeed, go swimming. I personally recommend Las Caracas Beach, as well as La Playa Negra, the black sand beach, where you can see wild horses!
Because of its geographic location, Puerto Rico averages temperatures of 80 degrees Fahrenheit year round, even in the winter months, which happens to be the island’s high season. Late spring and early summer, before the seasonal late summer rainfall, in addition to the fall, are optimal times to visit Puerto Rico, if you’re looking to avoid high season prices and a deluge of (American) tourists.
