Taos is like the overlooked girl in romantic comedies, whose beauty and intelligence goes unrealized by the protagonist until the very end of the film. Travelers tend to splurge on “hot” destinations, luxury island getaways and trendy cosmopolitan cities. When lesbian and queer women travelers realize these destinations are cost prohibitive and may be a tad more than homophobic, they should turn their attention to Taos.
Nestled in the north-central region of New Mexico, between the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and Rio Grande, Taos is a fantastic escape for lesbian and queer travelers in North America looking for adventure, spirituality, art, and romance-anytime of the year. The name of the city comes from the adjacent Taos Pueblo, the oldest inhabited Native American town and a millennium old UNESCO World Heritage Site. The spiritual heritage of the Pueblo, coupled with that of Taos’s other historic heritage site, the San Francisco de Assisi Mission Church, has infused the town with a palpable, powerful energy, revered by locals and tourists alike.
Also revered are women. Taos may be one of the most women-friendly and women-led cities I’ve ever visited – and I’m not just referring to straight women, but lesbians. Lesbians are everywhere – from the radio talk show hosts to the famous resident artists and writers. In fact, Taos has always held a special place in the hearts of literary and artistic lesbians and queer women. Back in 1918, socialite Mabel Dodge, close friend to Gertrude Stein, bought a home in Taos and turned it into an acclaimed salon, which welcomed the likes of Emma Goldman, Georgia O’Keeffe, Willa Cather, D.H. Lawrence, Ansel Adams and more. Today, visitors can stay at the Mabel Dodge Luhan House, in rooms named after Dodge’s own guests (like the O’Keefe Room), where literary and artistic retreats are held and where a new meditation and yoga center is currently being built.
There are plenty of places to stay in Taos, from hotels to AirBnB and VRBO rentals, like lesbian filmmaker Melissa Howden‘s fantastic, private retreat, replete with jacuzzi and a mesmerizing fireplace for those cold nights. If you’re looking for a gorgeous lodging within the center of the historic town area, I personally recommend the Palacio de Marquesa, operated by the sweetest openly gay bear, Chad Ozment, who has overseen the luxury property’s recent renovation, whereby each room is dedicated to one of the many fabulous (and, usually, gay) women of Taos. In the morning, the Marquesa’s personal chef makes guests breakfast to order-and I recommend ordering everything.
In the center of historic Taos you’ll find museums, art galleries, shops and restaurants colorfully lining the streets. No matter what you do, you need to check out Two Graces Plaza Gallery, owned and operated by Robert Cafazzo and his partner Holly Sievers. I met Robert on my trip and he is, without a doubt, the honorable LezBro of Taos. He knows all the lesbians and loves them, and he will tell you everything you need to know about Taos during your visit.
Both locals and tourists alike pack into Doc Martin’s-the restaurant at the Historic Taos Inn-for dinners and drinks. The margaritas are amazing, so you may need to book a room at the Inn at the end of the night. For a romantic dinner, try the Love Apple, which is a lesbian delight with all its organic, locally-sourced food. Old Martina’s is the place for a solid, southwestern meal and some square-dancing. If you’re outside of the city limits exploring the area or hiking the trails connected to the Rio Grande, be sure to stop off for a slice (or five) of carrot cake at Sugar Nymph’s Bistro, owned by lesbian couple Kai Harper Leah and Ki Holste.
It is worth renting a car during your stay in Taos – and not just to buy a slice of cake from a couple of lesbians. The spiritual land of the region is fecund with natural mineral springs. Less than an hour’s drive from the center of Taos is the Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs and Spa, which should be on your Taos “To Do” list if you’re wanting to pamper yourself for a day, or more. Variously heated spring pools, mud baths and massages are fantastic. That said, do yourself a favor and book a private pool at night for some stargazing with your girl. Seriously. Just do it.
This year, Taos Pride is being held August 13-15, but this place is seriously #DeepLez every day of the year.
