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Back in the Day: Out on the Catwalk
by Malinda Lo, December 13, 2005
Gia Carangi
Jenny Shimizu
Amanda Moore Kate Moss

On the surface, the fashion industry appears to be one of the queerest businesses around, with openly gay numerous designers, stylists and hairdressers. But models who work in the fashion industry are less likely to be openly gay or lesbian because their faces are used to sell products to the mainstream.

Though fashion magazine editorials may flirt with androgyny or same-sex attraction, most fashion advertising is still designed to appeal to a broad base, and thus advertisers rarely wish to be associated with anything that is not mainstream. Models who don’t fit traditional standards of beauty are rarely hired, except by those brands that are specifically marketed to an “edgy” audience.

Only a few openly lesbian models have achieved success in the modeling industry, though many industry insiders report that the business itself is full of straight women who on occasion fool around with other women. Much of this bicurious behavior, however, is linked with drugs and alcohol, fueling more of a Girls Gone Wild environment than one in which lesbianism is actually accepted. 

In 1998, openly lesbian Calvin Klein model Stine Garis told The Advocate, “While I don't hang out at the models’ bars where all of these things supposedly happen, I hear that a lot of models who are straight and have boyfriends will go out and get drunk, fool around, and kiss each other. You’re around a lot of beautiful women, so it’s not hard to imagine something going on. When it happens, I’m always like, Where was I?”

One of the earliest openly lesbian supermodels was Gia Carangi, who had a notorious addiction to heroin and died at only 26 years old in 1986 due to an AIDS-related illness. Best known as the basis for the HBO television movie Gia, in which openly bisexual actress Angelina Jolie played the drug-addicted model, Carangi made a huge splash in the fashion industry in the late 1970s for her “ethnic” look, which was particularly unusual at a time when the top models were all-American blondes such as Cheryl Tiegs and Christie Brinkley.

Born to a working-class family in Philadelphia—her father owned a hoagie restaurant—Carangi’s parents divorced when she was a child. She moved to New York when she was 18 to pursue modeling and found instant success, soon appearing on the covers of Vogue and Cosmopolitan, and in ads for the top designers of the time, including Diane von Furstenberg, Armani and Dior.

Known for her street smarts and favoring jeans and cowboy boots over the designer clothes that other models wore, Carangi was also known to often carry a knife with her. She once reportedly announced herself at the Wilhelmina modeling agency by carving her name into the receptionist’s desk with her switchblade.

Her first major fashion shoot took place in October 1978 with photographer Chris von Wangenheim. After wrapping the day’s shoot, he asked her to pose nude behind a chain link fence with makeup assistant Sandy Linter, and the shot has since become a legendary one that was later reproduced in the HBO film.

During the shoot Carangi was immediately drawn to Linter, and she soon began to pursue her.

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