Based on real events, Journey to Kafiristan is a touching story of two women and their adventure into "terra incognita"--literally and figuratively. It is a beautifully crafted travelogue in which the scenery is as much a part of the narrative as the actual dialogue.

Set in the period just before war breaks out in 1939, we are introduced to writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach (Jeanette Hein) and ethnologist Ella Maillart (Nina Petri) who are about to embark on a research trip to study the people inhabiting a remote valley in Persia.

From the outset, it's not clear what brings the two women together, other than their thirst for adventure. Ella appears to be a strong, independent, and well-traveled scholar whose desire for recognition drives her to attempt this trip into the unknown. Her traveling partner, Annemarie, is a soft butch in men's clothing, who has just spent time in detox for her addiction to heroin and looks upon this adventure as a way to free herself from the grip of the drug and a woman she left behind.

The cinematography and ever-changing scenery remind me of another queer journey: Bertolucci's The Sheltering Sky, and seems to both complement and comment on the growing relationship between the women.

The pair take off, leaving the lush greenery and stunning vistas of the Swiss Alps after agreeing upon Ella's Three Rules of Travel: always find a place to camp during the daylight, eat at least one warm meal a day, and most importantly, there are to be no secrets between them.

As they pass through the Balkans, cross the Black Sea, and enter the stark beauty of the deserts of Persia, it becomes painfully obvious that as well as running away from the uncertain political climate in Europe (which is becoming less accepting of those on the fringes of society, including intellectuals, artists, and homosexuals), both women are also running from themselves. They explore each other's lives as they travel though foreign lands, and a bond develops that strengthens their relationship as traveling companions, yet causes friction and a growing emotional isolation between them as they interact with the various people they encounter (nomads, diplomats, fellow academics, and adventurers).

Their grand adventure is cut short by Germany's invasion of Poland. Near to their destination, they are nonetheless forced to abandon their goal of reaching Kafiristan. The women must then decide whether to return home and face the political reality of war, or to keep running.

In this day and age of graphic sex and violence, I particularly enjoyed the delicate and nuanced performances of both actresses. The development of their intimate relationship is rarely displayed in an overt manner; instead, the filmmakers rely on snippets of dialogue, the changing environment, and the smoldering chemistry between the women to show us the eventual love that develops between Annemarie and Ella.

Although the leisurely pace may seem slow to some, I found it appropriate for the story, which at its heart is a moving portrait of two women's emotional and physical journey into the unknown.

Journey to Kafiristan plays June 23 at the Castro Theater in San Francisco as part of The San Francisco International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival and is also available on DVD.